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The beauty of Kabul

On 8th, March, 2017, we travelled from Urumqi to Kabul on the flight of Ariana. In the sunset, our plane flew towards the sun, going through the sea of clouds that were gilded at the rim of them. A blue scarf following the hat of a hostess reminds us that a conservative Islamic country awaits us ahead.

It was dark when we got out of the airport. We were warmly welcomed by teachers from Kabul University and a gift for Women’s Day was brought to me by them on behalf of the Literature Faculty. Our perturbation along the way totally disappeared immediately by such a surprise. On the way to Kabul University, through the window, we saw the dilapidated, low adobe house in the dim light and the hotels with dazzling neon lights in sharp contrast. I cannot help but sigh: "The nightlife seems so diversified! “Those are just wedding halls here” said the local teacher named Wen Pu in Chinese who accompanied the Chinese Director to pick us up from the airport. We all praised his the good Chinese name which sounds so culturally elegant. While talking, we closely looked at the outside in the hope of spotting some views worth visiting for the coming days. We don’t see the rabbles and ruins left behind by the wars took place here, neither have we seen the historical sites created by its 3000 year-old civilization. Obviously, it is hard for foreigners to find things to amuse their romantic souls among these basic facilities for subsistence.

Teacher Wen Pu got out of our car to ask the guard to let us in when it pulled off at a distance around 7 to 8 meters to the fully closed gate of Kabul University. The guards inside warned him not to move any further in shouts, however, he went straight forward the muzzle of his gun, just neglecting him. The guard aimed at him with his gun charged while warning in shouts. Teacher Wen Pu stepped back to the car and we hold our breath and dare not to make any slight move. The scene appeared to freeze the air. “ There was terrorist attack today. Many people died so they are so much frightened.”Explained Wen Pu after stepping back to the car. We were finally allowed in after a long talk over the phone.

The decision to come to work in Afghanistan is kind of out of impulse of adventure and the enchanting depiction of Kabul in Babur biography:

Kabul is not a big city. It is surrounded by mountains from the east to the west and it looks like a rectangle. The castle of Kabul is against the mountains and ranches are scattered on the mountains. In the south of the castle and the east of the Kabul Hill there is a huge Lake whose circumference is about 2 km. There is a river from Kabul Hill flowing to Kabul city, and its two branches are in the vicinity of KurKina ...

After the vivid depiction of the beauty of Kabul, the great Emperor thought it was still not t enough to be sensational and he then quoted the poem by Mullā Muḥammad.Talib.Muaimai to confirm its beauty:

Having a drink in the mansions of Kabul, one shall make a toast to the surrounding,

Since there are mountains,rivers,townships and pastures.

Over the years, people see nothing more than wars and terrorist attacks, as well as extreme poverty and chaos left behind by wars on television.

I am not convinced, there must be always something good, I think.

Kabul in Hindi means the" trading center ". The merchants gathered here the commercial city from China, India and Rome. Today it is desolate; once upon a time, flowing through the Kabul River in Kabul, early spring season attracted a large group of crane and egrets to habitat, The mermaid ducks, the numerous fish are the resources people live on, and now the river is filled with rubbish; we walk in the street there are always elderly, women and children stretching out "the never retracts the hand ".They begged the eyes is so stubborn, so that you cannot refuse.

With the development of the work, the deterioration of the situation, there is almost no possibility for us to go out of the campus. Every day we go nowhere other than office and home. A long dirty road and the trees on both sides of it, the garden, the wasteland seems to appease our lonely heart and the grasses change the colors with the seasons, the first open is the wild tulips, although the varieties are not Babur Said thirty-two, three as many, but that colorful color enough to make me feel pleasantly surprised. Of course, more varieties should be seen in the Dashti-Shaikh. Tulip withered, the room before the house on the open in full bloom of a sea called Kazakh layli saffron, swaying, so delicate. After a spring rain, the roadside cloves and locust trees are quietly open, the air filled with intoxicating fragrance. Discouraged by the fragrance of Sophora japonica gradually fading away and I found the campus where the roses have been budding!

Saib-e-Tabrizi, the famous poet in the 17th century once wrote:

Ah! How beautiful is Kabul encircled by her arid mountains

And Rose, of the trails of thorns she envies

Her gusts of powdered soil, slightly sting my eyes

But I love her, for knowing and loving are born of this same dust

My song exhalts her dazzling tulips

And at the beauty of her trees, I blush


Babur also said that Kabul climate is pleasant, there is no other place in the world there is such a good air elsewhere.

Just like Riley in McGillenn's eyes. Kabul's beauty is full of warmth for the souls to feel. Crescent rising night, I hang outdoors. The daytime summer heat is intolerable; however, the night is "from the Baltic Bay north wind" source, really comfortable. Look at the stars, the East has one of the brightest stars, I call it "Yultuzi Babur" (Babur Star). I think that the military genius who wrote his life in Uyghur was a Uyghur who remembered his performance. The stars rising from the east are so bright in Kabul's night sky, and the thousands of lights on the hills surrounding Kabul reflect the glory of the people into the sweet dreams.

My pen is hard to describe the beauty of Kabul's night sky. After a long time the sun goes down, you can still see the horizon of the mountain was dyed golden, while the mountain is gradually thickening of light and shadow. Pure sky floating with white clouds, with the darkness of the night, hidden in the lacquer stone deep dusk, this time, Kabul night because of melodious, high-pitched Bangke added a few peace and tranquility. During the month of Ramadan, the surrounding mosques, in addition to the rituals, also read the Qur'an for a long time.

Just as people have the same stereotype of Afghanistan, it should be a dry and rainy country. However, Kabul's rain is the most unusual, said under the next, crackling, moisten the vegetation, washed the dust, bit by bit is so precious. After the rain the Kabul air mixed with flowers and the fragrance of the soil, like the subtle Kabul girl, it is the mind waves.

Some people say that like a place, mostly because of the people there.

Morning and afternoon campus grass, flowers and men in college students sitting together to talk and discuss, like pearls scattered on the campus, their purity and elegance is so obvious, people cannot bear to remove their eyes. Slowly walked by their side, some people warmly greeted, soon as "Salam" closer to our distance.

Though the management of university is not rigid enough, the students that do not live on campus come to school to attend their courses every day at the risk of losing life. The calm attitude of students towards frequent terrorist attacks ongoing nearby influences us a lot. As long as the students dedicate to learning more, we would be always there teaching them no matter how the situation would became.

Compared with the young people in other war-troubled regions and countries, the students studying in Kabul University are promising and lucky. Since they have grown up during the post-war period, they have got the chance to study in such a beautiful university. They can freely talk to and get on with their opposite gender students. Enjoying the convenience of the internet, they are well-connected with globally with Facebook. And they share their personal life and emotions with people around the world who they have never met in good English so they become more tolerant and peace-loving than their parents. They can both fully development their individuality and pursuit the dream while observing the traditional rules. We have seen hope and vitality of this country from the young people.

While the Medias are focusing on poverty and chaos in Afghanistan, we have seen the building of homes and the opening of new shops welcoming people. Despite the very slow recovery of this country from hurt of the war and the emerging new threats, people are still praying and fasting and continuing their daily life in the sounds of explosions.

According to Wikipedia, hope, a terminology of emotions, is the positive production of sentiment and is also the response to events related with life and other factors such environment.

In the Greek saga, hope is the last thing left in the Pandora’s box. In a way, hope means no surrender to any difficulty. That’s to say when a nation is still in the belief of hope, she inclined to believe positive changes will take place even though negative incidents occurs frequently.

O, Kabul, the ultimate home of Great emperor Babul, wish you are always with hope side by side and hand in hand.

Authored by Gulinisha Jiamali, a guest teacher at Kabul University
>>> READ ORIGINAL ARTICLE ON Heart of Asia
Translated by Wang Jianfeng, a guest teacher at Kabul University